Day 44: Base Camp Cleaning. We descended via the east ridge, roping up for sections due to crevasses. We completely reduced superfluous talk about certain decisions. The other four would follow the next day.On October 26, the four of us eagerly (if slowly) waded through the snow-covered trail toward the two small tents below the face. Taeko, feeling dizzy, decided to go back to the tent and wait for Yasushi.
Day 14-43: Climbing period. I shared a tent with Andrej and, as usual, we got along fairly well, complementing each other.
Pleased to have escaped the area below the hanging seracs, I waited for Andrej and Matic.They joined me, but our enthusiasm about the quick descent did not last long. Although at first I looked at the fact that we had climbed four interesting summits, I realized that we had been through a lot, intensively gaining experiences that enriched us for good. Andrej threw up. For me, being there was a truly unique experience. While we melted the first container of water, Peter and Tomaž called during their descent from the top. While Marko and I cooked, Andrej and Matic went to make a short track in the snow toward the face, so that in the morning walking would be easier.As the shadows covered the tents, we disappeared inside.
We had been poisoned by carbon monoxide.That night, we could not reach BC by radio, so Matic ran to get Doctor Žare. Meanwhile, the four of us went up to ABC. A substitute passport would be waiting for Tomaž on our return to the border of Zangmu.Andrej made a deal for the yak herders to come to BC on November 3. We descended somewhat to the left of our ascent route because it was less technical. The enlarged team was intended not only to reduce costs, but also to transfer experiences to younger climbers. A day after our arrival at BC, we emptied the satellite phone account. Or had it just begun?“How are we ever going to return to the valley in all this snow?” Although it appeared on all our faces, it was the question nobody asked out loud.In the afternoon of the third day, the snow stopped falling. Andrej was napping in the comer, and I began falling asleep, too. We rushed into the valley, wanting to get to the village in one day.
Day 50-51: Kathmandu. Consider things such as access and accommodation at the base of Gyachung Kang, as well as the logistics of climbing … Day 45: Today, we trek to Gokyo Lake, overnight in the camp.
It was enough to look at each other and say a few words before we each went our own way.
That evening, Andrej established the seriousness of the situation. The summit seemed temptingly close as well. We had been active all day, and our movement slowed down noticeably.
Sitting on this, they pulled the tent over their heads for shelter. We started a rescue that quickly proceeded on the avalanche cone under the face. It lies on the border between Nepal and Tibet. In this perspective, Andrej, the Himalayan veteran, was a real treasure, and he of course took over the post of leader.In the spring, Andrej and Marko Car made a reconnaissance to Gyachung Kang, exploring the approach and examining the mountain’s faces. We encouraged them to start descending, then struck the tents and packed our rucksacks.
After a few unsuccessful attempts, I mumbled to Andrej, “Something’s buzzing in my head,” then fell back as if defeated by sleep. As the fifteenth highest peak in the world, it is also the highest peak that is not an eight-thousander; hence it is far less well-known than the lowest of the eight-thousanders, which are only about 100 m (328 ft) higher.The mountain was first climbed on April 10, 1964 by Y. Kato, K. Sakaizawa and Pasang Phutar and on the next day by K. Machida and K. Yasuhisa.The north face was first climbed in 1999 by a Slovene expedition and was repeated by Yasushi Yamanoi in 2002.This expedition starts from Lukla after 30 minutes scenic flight from Kathmandu.Then we commence trek to Phakding by crossing small village chaurikharka and Ghat and we continue trek to Namche Bazzar.We will spend 2 nights at Khumjung for acclimatization .From Khumjung we trek through Dole, Machhermo and Gokyo then head towards Gyachung Kang base camp.We spend couple of days at base camp for climbing training like -how to use Oxygen,mask and regulator.Generally three camp are set in the approach above Gyachung Kang base camp and our professional climbing sherpa and guide will take to you the Mt,Gyachung Kang sumiit then descend to Lukla by following the same route.Our representative will meet you at Airport and then transfer to hotel .Day 03.
The snowstorm lasted for more than 60 hours and covered BC in almost a meter of snow. Janko and Blaž decided to descend, Peter and Tomaž to continue.Meanwhile, Andrej, Marko, Matic and I began our ascent.
Meanwhile, Marko prepared something to drink and took care of us in a motherly way. Curiosity and a wish to put up an Advanced Base Camp to allow fast access to the face would not let us rest. Itinerary . We celebrated my birthday. Fortunately, it was not very steep, so we did not belay each other. 6700m, first ascent), October 6, Car, Meznar, Prezelj and Štremfelj, and October 7, Jost, Navrsnik, Jakofcic and Meglic, with descent via the east ridge/east face (III/2, 700m), October 6, Car, Meznar, Prezelj and Štremfelj; Trzic route (IV+/4, 1100m) on the north face/east ridge of Siguang Ri Shar (6998m, first ascent), October 10, Meglic, with descent via the south face (III/3, 800m); the south face (IV/3, 450m), October 12, Car, Prezelj and Štremfelj. Another avalanche hit him, ripping off his goggles and affecting his vision as well. They still seemed very close, and I got the idea that we could follow them. This, and the fact that the yaks arrived at BC the next evening, spiked our happiness at the successful ascent with a great deal of concern. I did not feel tired.
The cook promised to economize with fuel.
We also had to arrange for the arrival of yaks to BC. “Rest, and then you can try again.”The first four started climbing on October 28. Gyachung Kang in a professional and committed manner.
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